2009 Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard
France
Morey Saint Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2014 - 2022
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Cécile Tremblay is one of Burgundy's emerging young growers. I was very impressed with all of the wines I tasted. Tremblay farms four hectares of vineyards across eleven appellations. She favors lengthy macerations (The 2009s spent 30 days on the skins) with no chaptalization or acidification. The percentage of whole clusters varies from wine to wine and can reach 100% at the grand cru level. The wines stay on the lees with no racking until they are prepared for bottling. New oak ranges from 20% for the village wines to 70% for the grand crus. These are striking wines, but there is every reason to believe the best is yet to come from this small, high-quality domaine.
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Cecile Tremblay, a grand niece of Henri Jayer, began her estate in 2003 and now owns four hectares of vines, having added a hectare of land in Chambolle-Musigny in 2008. Her methods include a strict green pruning in the spring rather than a green harvest later in the season, and long, slow alcoholic fermentations following a three- or four-day cold soak (about 30 days of cuvaison in 2009), using infusion rather than more energetic extraction techniques. In 2009, for example, she did only five or six punchdowns for each cuvee, which she described as more than she did in 2010 or 2008. Tremblay vinifies most of her wines with a portion of whole clusters (but not Chambolle or Morey); getting thoroughly ripe fruit and eliminating less-than-perfect grapes are keys to the success of her approach. She told me she picked her fruit in 2008 in three passes and did a strict triage. (Incidentally, her top cuvees in 2008 are terrific, with an average yield of 26 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 39 in 2009.) The 2009s had been racked three weeks before my visit, but were still on their lees in barriques (mostly supplied by Stephan Chassin). Tremblay bottles by gravity, without fining or filtration.
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