2009 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2021 - 2039
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I was deeply impressed with Christophe Perrot-Minot's 2009s. The wines are rich and powerful in the Perrot-Minot style, yet also shine with tons of energy. New oak was 20% for the village level wines, 30% for the premier crus and 30-50% for the grand crus, topping out at 50% for the Chambertin.
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Christophe Perrot-Minot, who insists that there is still enough of a market for his spare-no-expense wines in a worldwide recession, told me that the 2009s offer a wider aromatic spectrum than the 2005s. "The best 2009s are concentrated, balanced and more complex than the '05s," he said. "But, on average, the 2005s are more concentrated but less complex, and more obviously the products of a sunny year." Perhaps most important, the 2009s offer easier digestibility: "They're more classic, more accurate to their terroir and more elegant. And they have the balance for long aging." Of course, he pointed out that his vinification has changed over recent years, in an attempt to produce more soil-driven, harmonious and drinkable wines. Incidentally, the village wines in 2009 were aged in 20% new oak (the rest once-used) and the premier and grand crus in 30% new oak-down dramatically from about 70% in 2005. The average crop level in 2009 was a very reasonable 31 hectoliters per hectare, compared to a normal 25 to 30 here. The malos mostly started in the spring and finished in September, but no wines had been racked yet.
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