2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Village

Serge Groffier noted that grape sugars were even higher here in 2004 than in 2005: in the mid-13s, vs. 12.9% to 13.2% in 2005. I found the new wines-as usual, in floating-top tanks in the Groffiers' chilly garage-difficult to taste in November. But they are classic 2005 in style: rich, powerful and a bit youthfully sullen. In comparison, the 2004s in bottle were more pliant and expressive. Thanks to their tireless work in the vines and their normally low crop levels, the Groffiers frequently outperform in years when their neighbors struggle to ripen their fruit. By the way, the 2005 Passetoutgrains promises to be about as good as this category of wine gets. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)

Serge Groffier told me that rot and oidium were not serious problems in 2004, and that the family's vineyards received very little hail, but a strict selection was nevertheless necessary to eliminate the less-ripe grapes. "It's a vintage for medium-term keeping," he said. "The wines should remain fresh for eight or nine years and age slowly. "The Groffiers harvested their Amoureuses, with special derogation, a day before the official start to the harvest, with potential alcohol of 13. 5%. As is often the case, the Groffiers' 2004 Bourgogne was one of the best I tasted in Burgundy, and the Passetoutgrains was an outperformer as well. A couple of the hugely concentrated, superripe 2003s were particularly impressive in November; the Groffiers made acid adjustments to the musts and after the vinification. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)