2009 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru
France
Morey Saint Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2021 vintage)
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Virgile Lignier's 2009s show notable intensity and ripeness, but also preserve quite a bit of freshness through the use of whole clusters, which reach as much as 100% in two wines. The Bourgogne and Chambolle were bottled in December 2010. I tasted all of the other wines from tank. Bottling was scheduled for the end of March 2011. Readers will find notes on a handful of 2008s on this site.
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There were three keys to making excellent wine in 2009, said Virgile Lignier: control your yields, vinify with at least a portion of whole clusters, and taste constantly through the vinification so that you'll know when to stop extracting. "In sum, the biggest challenge in 2009 was to preserve freshness in the wines, to avoid having heavy wines." Lignier carried out two separate green harvests, the second one to eliminate the large bunches and large grapes, but still produced an average yield of 48 hectoliters per hectare, which he said was his biggest crop to date. He began harvesting on September 15 and brought in fruit with potential alcohol ranging from 12.5% to 15% (!). Two cuvees were racked in July after the malos, the rest just before the 2010 harvest. About 80% of the wines were in tank at the time of my November visit.
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