2004 Larcis Ducasse
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
78% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon
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2020 - 2045
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2018 - 2034
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This comprehensive retrospective at Larcis Ducasse spanned a remarkable eight decades and included wines all the way back to 1945 that trace the evolution of the estate during the three distinct eras that span those years.
In the past, Larcis Ducasse had a checkered track record with regards to quality. This vertical certainly is proof of that. Some of the older wines in this tasting, notably the wines of the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s are terrific, especially considering the eras during which they were made. But other wines, especially those from the late 1980s and early 1990s, are lackluster. As we will see, quality picks up in a meaningful way throughout the 2000s and well into the 2010s.
One of the things I admire most about Larcis is its very reasonable price upon release. While Bordeaux is often criticized, sometimes justly, for excessively high prices, the reality is that there are dozens of châteaux that make delicious, ageworthy, pedigreed wines that the average consumer can still afford. In fact, some of my favorite vintages in this vertical are not necessarily the most celebrated years like 2005, 2009 and 2010. To be sure, those are gorgeous wines, but they also carry the high, at times inflated, prices of collectible vintages. As a consumer looking for wines to drink, I am frankly more tempted by 2004, 2008 and 2012, all of which are absolutely delicious right now and offer terrific relative value.
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