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I must confess that after the untimely passing of Denis Durantou, I feared for the future of this Pomerol estate. Indeed, no sooner had they said good-bye to their father, now keeping a watchful eye from the small cemetery adjacent to their house, Constance and Noëmie Durantou were besieged by vultures with entreaties to sell or offering their services. Bordeaux has little time for sentiment. Yet, Durantou’s daughters inherited their father’s steeliness and resolve, rebuffed inviting offers and weathered what had clearly been a traumatic season, particularly for Noëmie in charge of winemaking. She must have surely felt more pressure than anyone in terms of continuing the legacy under adverse conditions. Fortunately, it is clear from tasting the wines, they have navigated choppy waters, and I suspect that in doing so, it will stand them in good stead for the long-term. The vultures will have to feast elsewhere. “We had 15 nights of frost, one in March and one in April,” Noëmie Durantou explained. “In 2021, we had an early green burst (unlike 2022) which meant there was high risk [of frost]. We used windmills that Denis bought in 2016 and candles, though it was quite difficult to find them. We sprayed on time, so we didn’t have too much mildew pressure, something that I let happen the previous year. After that I said to myself – never again. June was humid and wet, so the berries were large, unlike in 2020 that had small short bunches. Therefore, we had bigger yields on every property. The vineyard was so vigorous until mid-August. Usually we de-leaf in July, but this year it was August as the vines were still growing. We had to keep tying up the vines, five instead of three times. We started picking on 27 September. The harvest was very quick, at l’Eglise-Clinet, completed over three days instead of a week, as we wanted to pick before the rain. The rain came on the Sunday afternoon, when it was warm and quite stormy. The Cabernet Franc was picked at the same time as the Merlot, which was almost like a Malbec, spicy and fleshy. I had never seen that kind of skin to fruit ratio.”
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