2016 Chinon La Rougerie

Fifth-generation Bertrand Sourdais has run the family domaine since 2005 but divides his time between Domaine de Pallus and his vineyards in Ribera del Duero. This extraordinarily well-traveled Loire winemaker spent his formative years in Bordeaux and Spain, bringing an outsider's approach to winemaking despite having been born and raised in Chinon. Sourdais originally produced a first and second wine (Pallus and Pensées de Pallus) based on blending à la Bordelais, but he now bottles his single vineyards separately. La Rougerie is, unusually for Chinon, a vineyard on pure clay; the wines reflect its soil type in their substance and rounded structure. La Croix Boisée is a mix of sand and clay on top of limestone. The estate is now organic, having started the conversion in 2009. Extraction is gentle – no pumpovers here – and maceration is long, followed by a lengthy period in barrel. A late-release policy means that the current vintage is often five or so years old. Excellent standards and the potential for aging over two decades and more, make this a great place for Right Bank Bordeaux lovers to start exploring the Loire.

I was really impressed with the wines I tasted from Domaine de Pallus. Bertrand Sourdais crafts magnificent expressions of Cabernet Franc at his family’s estate in Chinon. The Pensées de Pallus will give readers a very good idea of what to expect and also happens to be a steal, while the flagship La Rougerie is off the charts.