2008 Barolo Vigne

This is a stellar set of wines from the Sandrone family. As I wrote last year, something quite interesting has happened at Sandrone over the last two years. Sandrone built their reputation with the Barolo Cannubi Boschis. In recent years, the Sandrones have upped their game meaningfully with new sites that add complexity and pedigree to the Barolo Le Vigne and also introduced a new Barolo, the Vite Talin, both of which are so impressive that they now overshadow the Cannubi Boschis. All of that makes the Sandrones’ decision to rebrand their flagship wine Aleste all the more puzzling. But, as the saying goes, it is what it is. I have also included notes on the 2008 Barolos Sandrone is re-releasing this year as part of their library program. Those wines are fascinating to revisit, as the gradual stylistic shift that has taken place here (as it has elsewhere) is evident. Luciano Sandrone's first vintage under his own label was 1978. I can't think of too many producers in Piedmont (or anywhere, for that matter) that have been as consistently brilliant over that arc of time.

This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.

The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.

I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.

For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.

Luciano Sandrone describes 2008 as a very classic vintage. It was a year with very slow and gradual ripening. The Nebbiolo harvest started in early October and lasted the entire month. The biggest news at Sandrone is the addition of parcels in Baudana (Serralunga) and Villero (Castiglione) which will appear in Le Vigne beginning with the 2011 vintage. As for the 2008s, they are majestic.

Sandrone compares 2009 to 1999: "Everything is in there and it's all in the right place," he told me. "But it's too early to talk about complexity." Sandrone views 2008 as a classic vintage from a long, cool season and a late harvest. "We will need time to understand and to drink these wines. The '07s are much easier to drink now; they're rounder, fatter and sweeter." Good news to Barolo lovers: Sandrone bought 1.3 hectares of vines in Baudana (in Serralunga) in May; he'll use 60% of the fruit in 2011 and will replant the rest of the vines. He has also rented some land in Villero, which will go into a new bottling in the 2011 vintage. In addition to Sandrone's library release of Barolo eight years after the vintage, there is now a nebbiolo from Roero released six years later. Sandrone used 20% to 25% new oak for his Barolos in 2007 and 2008, including some barriques from Stephane Chassin, who supplies barrels to such Burgundy stars as Mounir Saoume (Lucien Lemoine) and Olivier Bernstein. Sandrone, needless to say, is a long-time Burgundy lover.