2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot
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2027 - 2055
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Few estates with the status of this property are furrowing their own individual path as much as Les Carmes Haut-Brion, under the direction of Guillaume Pouthier. I wonder whether we will one day look back on its contemporary wines as pioneers for whole bunch usage in Bordeaux? Surely, others must be looking at plaudits praising its wines, including myself, wondering whether they should throw a few stems in the mix? “We have more volume in 2021 than 2020 because there was a lot of water in the soil,” Pouthier told me in typically voluble form. “It was not easy to absorb the potassium, which is why you sprayed to improve assimilation. Another problem was the Cicadellidae [leafhoppers] that dried the leaves and reduced photosynthesis. I found that clay and limestone terroirs kept water in the soil, and this helped with tannic ripeness. The maturity of the Merlot is very different than the Cabernet, better, because of the later ripening cycle. There was a four-week véraison for Merlot compared to two-and-a-half weeks for Cabernet, so there was heterogeneous ripeness that became clear during harvest. Therefore, we picked three times for both cuvées. The yield was 42hL/ha. For Les “C” des Carmes, the first picking at the end of September had [potential alcohol levels] of 12.6% and after two weeks, it was 13.8%. The malic acid is quite high because of a lack of sun, around 50% more, so the pH will go up during malolactic. We did not chaptalise. We had less body, but when you add whole bunches you add to the mid-palate.”
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