2008 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese

With a total production of only about 20,000 bottles of year from some five acres of vineyards, the wines of Karl-Josef Christoffel are neither widely known nor seen, but they are certainly worth seeking out. The wealth of older vintages still available at the estate attests to the fact that he has been making fine rieslings for years. Although the spatleses and ausleses are richer in flavor, the star of this year's line-up is definitely the Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, a beautiful expression of its vineyard's character and very attractively priced. Also recommended: 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Feinherb (90), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (89), 2008 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese (92).

After lackluster 2007s, the 2008s here show a bit more cheer. The dry rieslings that this estate needs for the domestic market seldom win my accolades, and even the kabinetts and spatleses are not as brilliant as they were before Hans-Leo Christoffel leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael from Monchhof, where the wines are now made. Also recommended: 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (85), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (86), 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese (87). Other wines tasted: 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Trocken, 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken, 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb.