2002 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Italy
Sant'angelo in Colle
Tuscany
Red
Sangiovese
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2023 - 2038
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It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of, either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines, all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera’s wines will last forever. Readers will find extensive historical context in the article that accompanies these tasting notes.
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2016 - 2026
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This stunning collection of Brunellos from Gianfranco Soldera spanned twenty-four vintages and three decades going all the way back to 1981, including all of the reference point Brunellos in that time frame as well as a number of wines from less heralded vintages. Many of the bottles came from my cellar. I was especially pleased to see Brunellos from long forgotten vintages such as the 1981 and 1984 show so well. Both of those wines continued to improve over the course of the many hours I followed them. With the exception of an off bottle or two, the iconic vintages were also pretty special. Some of my favorites included the 1982, 1988, 1990 Riserva, 1994 Riserva, 1997 Riserva, 2001 Riserva and 2004 Riserva. I would like to thank a small group of friends who contributed the bottles to this tasting.
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2015 - 2042
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Once or twice a year my tasting group gathers to survey a collection of wines from Gianfranco Soldera. These events are always unforgettable, as Soldera’s Brunellos have the rare ability to captivate all the senses with their extraordinary, riveting beauty. To be honest, though, the cards were stacked in our favor, as the selection of vintages pretty much moved from strength to strength. Sadly, we did not have a good bottle of the 1997, but that turned out to be a relatively small blemish on an otherwise extraordinary night.
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2014 - 2042
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Over the years I have been fortunate to taste just about every wine Gianfranco Soldera has made at his Case Basse property in Montalcino. Even the early mid-1970s Rossos, which were then called Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello, have aged exceptionally well. This recent dinner with one of my New York tasting groups provided a great opportunity to check in on a numberof mostly more recent releases. Gianfranco Soldera’s Brunellos remain some of the most compelling, viscerally thrilling wines readers will find anywhere in the world.
As always, provenance is key. I couldn’t help notice that a number of the wines I brought showed exceptionally well. They weren’t necessarily from the best or most highly regarded years, but they were most certainly bottles that did not have a lot of miles on them. That makes a huge difference, especially with wines that are made with very little intervention in the cellar.
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2017 - 2032
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Gianfranco Soldera continue to make some of the most compelling wines in Montalcino. A visit to this estate is an absolute must for anyone who seeks to understand the essence of one of the world's greatest producers. I don't say that lightly. A recent bottle of Soldera's 1998 Riserva more than held it own when tasted alongside some of the greatest wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, in fact it showed far more complexity and sheer character than many of those far more celebrated bottles.
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