2005 Ermitage L'Ermite

I finally had the chance to see Michel Chapoutier on his home turf this year, but it was literally as I was walking to my car since he had just arrived in Tain from his annual November trip to the Far East. I tasted again with Pierre-Henri Morel, Chapoutier's commercial and export director, who told me that the house was happy that the 2006 whites were so vibrant and forward. "The 2005s need some time," he said, "but should ultimately be more serious." Chapoutier's 2006 reds are notable for their remarkably fragrant bouquets, which are in stark contrast to the more serious, brooding 2005s. "They will be great for people who don't want to defer gratification, but don't be fooled into thinking that they won't last, as they have excellent freshness and balance," Morel said.

I tasted a staggering (literally) range of wines this year with commercial director Pierre-Henri Morel, who offered the opinion that the 2004 white wines here might prove more complex with age than the outstanding 2005s. "The 2004 vintage has remarkable balance and finesse," he said. It would nice to be able to compare these two sets of wines down the road, or any time for that matter, as these are among the most striking and complex white wines I've ever been privileged to drink, from anywhere, including that hoity-toity region to the north. I might sound like a tape loop but Chapoutier's collection of red single-site wines was one of the highlights of my trip, again. These are must-try wines for any Rhone-lover and I can't help wondering when I hear criticism of them whether the nay-sayer has actually tried what he's knocking. It's worth repeating that Chapoutier makes only mono-cepage wines: marsanne for the whites, syrah (obviously) for the northern reds and grenache for the Chateauneufs. (Paterno Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL) Also recommended: 2004 Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche Blanc (86), 2004 Saint-Joseph Deschants (86). Other wines tasted: 2005 Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche, 2005 Saint-Joseph Deschants.