2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva

Praesidium must be part of the conversation when speaking of traditional Abruzzo producers. The winery is located in the Peligna Valley, a secluded and unique part of the region that is defined by clay soils mixed with calcareous rock at around 400 meters, all surrounded by mountains and cut off from the influences of the Adriatic Sea. This landscape results in a more continental climate, which, together with the calcareous soils, produces wines of power and depths of minerality. The Pasquale family follows strict organic principles in the vineyards, using spontaneous fermentations, long macerations and extended barrel aging. They then release the wines later than most producers, preferring to use only the Riserva classification, and placing the wines on the market only when they feel they are ready. There are two Montepulcianos. One is the Riserva (current vintage 2019), and the other is the A Marianna (current vintage 2015), produced from their oldest vineyards, averaging 50 to 60 years of age. It’s hard to classify the Praesidium wines within the context of Abruzzo. To me, they are dark and rich yet tannic and built for the long haul, showing a pleasant rusticity while remaining wonderfully refined.