2001 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
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2017 - 2028
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The reticent Dugat describes his succulent 2002s as wines with more fruit but less structure than his 2001s.On my most recent visit to this squeaky-clean, deep cellar, Dugat made a point of telling me he prefers 'elegance' to 'finesse' as a descriptor. A wine can be elegant and powerful,' he explained. 'But finesse is often used to describe a light wine.'Dugat's utterly captivating wines, from carefully controlled yields and very ripe fruit (like Mortet, Dugat started harvesting before the official ban de vendange in 2002), will never be described as light.(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington D.C.
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Claude Dugat told me his Griottes-Chambertin vines produced just 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, with the other crus in the 30 to 32 range. The wines were racked in April and finished their malos in May and June. Dugat de-gasses his wines prior to bottling them, and he is convinced that they are frequently better in bottle than they were in barrel in part because the elimination of most of the CO2 brings suppler tannins. Dugat's 2000s are heartbreaking wines, not least because I was too late to buy any. But the 2001s, developing more slowly, may ultimately reach the same lofty quality level, and my early look at the 2002s suggests that this vintage will be especially strong chez Dugat. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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