1999 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Charmes Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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"Not a lot of difference between the two years in terms of the raw material," said Claude Dugat, echoing my feeling that, in Gevrey-Chambertin at least, the finest 2000s are not far behind 1999 in quality. Yields at this domaine were similar to those of '99, and a small percentage of rot-affected grapes had to be eliminated from the village and premier cru lots. Dugat '99s are truly heartbreaking wines: utterly compelling Burgundies that I delayed purchasing and thus may never own. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Claude Dugat had virtually the same yields in '99 as in '98, as his high percentage of vines on very poor soil is a strong limiting factor on production. For example, in Griottes-Chambertin, he told me, he made about 25 hectoliters per hectare in both vintages. Not surprisingly, the '99s are immensely rich, sappy wines that will showcase the potentially glorious fruit of this seductive vintage. They offer almost liqueur-like ripeness without showing the more exaggerated roasted qualities of Dugat '97s. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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