1995 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Charmes Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
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Self-effacing, quietly confident Claude Dugat has become a cult figure (the successor to Henri Jayer?) but wears his fame lightly. Dugat added to his village holdings by purchasing some 70-year-old vines in 1994. Following our tasting of the 1995 Griottes-Chambertin, Dugat opened a bottle of the '93 Griottes, one of a handful remaining in his private collection. The '93 was off the charts, with extraordinarily chewy texture and a powerful suggestion of terroir I give the '93 a slight edge over '95 here on sheer structure and material, but the '95s are glorious wines. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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