2002 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
France
Chablis
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2018 - 2029
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Like 1999 but with better maturity of flavors," is the way Bernard Raveneau describes his family domain's crop of wines in 2003.The fruit was very ripe and no chaptalization was done; natural alcohol levels are in the 12.5% to 13% range.Yields averaged a very low 35 hectoliters per hectare, with the crop level held down by heat, not frost.In fact, Raveneau maintained that there was virtually no loss due to frost.The family does not have vines low on hillsides (they do not own any village parcels), but, according to Raveneau, there were no real problems even in their unprotected hillside sites.The estate's 2002s have turned out extremely well, particularly the grand crus.Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as "an ideal vintage, one we'd like to be able to make every year.The wines have great balancing acids and no dissonance.They're not at all over the top."IWC readers will recall that Raveneau prefers the estate's almost miraculously precise, minerally 2001s to the suppler but less intense 2000s, which he believes to have suffered from a bit of dilution due to rainfall prior to the harvest.
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Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as an ideal vintage, richer and more concentrated than 2000, with no need for chaptalization and sound acidity in the 4 to 4.5 grams-per-liter range. The wines, according to Raveneau, have more of the typical minerality of Chablis than the 2000s, a vintage in which some rain just before the harvest resulted in an element of dilution. Raveneau also clearly prefers the family's 2001s to its 2000s, and my tastings of the finished 2001s confirm that these are extremely impressive, even if they are in a different register of aromas and flavors. Raveneau told me he doesn't mind a bit of noble rot in his wines, noting that it gives them a honeyed quality and a more glyceral texture. There's no doubt that a vintage like 2001 is in a different style," he concluded, comparing this vintage to 1994.
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