2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru

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2030 - 2060

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This year’s presentation of the new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti marked the beginning of a new chapter. It was the first time new Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine presented the wines following the retirement of Aubert de Villaine.

As I sat down to taste the wines, I thought it was probably a very good time for a transition because that is what Burgundy is all about right now. Transition. The first thing evident in the 2020 reds is their intense red/purplish color. I guess this is present-day Burgundy. These are not your parents’ wines; that much is clear. We are in another era, figuratively and literally.

Two thousand-twenty is the third in a cycle of historically warm and dry years spanning vintages 2018 through 2020. And yet it is also the most surprising of the three years. As much as the wines are dark, deep and richly flavored, they are also remarkably fresh and vibrant. Are the vines adapting to current conditions, or are vineyard managers and winemakers becoming more skilled at dealing with the New Burgundy, or are other factors at play? I suspect the answer to that question, if there indeed is an answer, is pretty complex.

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2025 - 2045

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2027 - 2050

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As usual, I am going to keep this brief because I deep-dive into each new vintage of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti when it is released, which means these 2019s will be reviewed in early 2023. But it is always a useful exercise to assess the wines from barrel and plot their progress. On this occasion, I was unable to taste the full range with Bertrand de Villaine, as the Corton, Richebourg and Romanée-Conti had just been racked (part of their new approach during élevage is to rack off some of the barrels into vat after one year instead of barrel-to-barrel). Suffice it to say that these showed huge potential, especially the electrifying Romanée-Saint-Vivant and a quintessential La Tâche that I accidentally swallowed rather than spat out. How unprofessional.

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