2005 Echézeaux Grand Cru

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This truly once in a lifetime tasting of wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was one of many highlights of last year’s Villa d’Este Wine Symposium, which was held from November 6-9 on the picturesque, idyllic shores of Lake Como in Italy.

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Two terroirs, across four vintages in four different decades. Those were the parameters for this fascinating tasting held at the World Wine Symposium a few weeks ago. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Co-Manager Aubert de Villaine supplied all of the bottles from the estate’s cellars, which accounts for the brilliant performance of some of the wines in this tasting, the 1985s and 1979s in particular. Although the purpose of the tasting was to analyze the role of terroir, I actually found the wines to be just as marked by the personalities of their respective vintages.

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Aubert de Villaine described 2005 as "a drought year in which the vines adapted well-and much better than they did in 2003." He told me he was worried about getting the dry tannins of 1976, but was pleasantly surprised to find that the wines showed a lot of fruit from the very beginning. Yields for most of the property's crus were in the range of 28 to 30 hectoliters per hectare. Incidentally, Villaine told me that although the domain typically bottles six barrels at a time, the 2002 La Tache and Romanee-Conti were bottled barrel by barrel, as were most of the wines in 1995. DRC prefers to bottle barrel by barrel when they don't want to lose any more CO2. The finished 2004s here are wonderfully complex wines, among the stars of their vintage, but the 2005s, which should evolve in bottle for 20 to 30 years, are extra special. "Two thousand four will always be a vintage for the nose," noted Villaine. "It will always be extremely aromatic."

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