2010 Montrachet Grand Cru

Yields in 2011 were average, and smaller than those of 2009, said Gerard Boudot."Of course we had a much larger crop than in 2010 thanks to the superb flowering," he addied.Potential alcohol levels were in the 12.5% range, and all but the top crus were chaptalized lightly.At the time of my visit, Boudot had not yet stirred the lees; in 2010, he did only two or three batonnages for each cuvee.Similarly, Boudot has been slowly reducing his use of new oak in recent years.He now uses just 20% to 25% for most of his premier crus (the Combettes gets 33%), compared to 33% to 40% in the late '90s.Boudot is convinced that biodynamic farming has enabled him to get more aromatic precision in his wines, especially in his Bienvenue-Batard and Batard."Now the differences between these wines are accentuated," he told me, "despite the fact that the vines are not far from each other."

I have to admit I was a bit perplexed by these 2010s from Sauzet. A number of wines were massively reduced and/or heavily sulfured to a degree I did not encounter at any other property I visited. The best selections in the lineup are quite strong, which suggests some of those elements may dissipate over time as the wines integrate, but at the same time, I can only report what is in the glass, and the reality is that some of the wines in this lineup are very awkward at this stage. I suggest readers taste the Sauzet 2010s before making any major commitments. The 2010 harvest started on September 17th. Yields were closer to normal in the village wines, but down by as much as 35% in the premier and grand crus. The wines spent 12 months in oak, 25-35% new for the premier crus, and 35% new for the grand crus, followed by six months in tank.