2017 Huilkrans

Having not dined at A Wong for a while due to the pandemic, I was eager to return. So when a friend came over from the other side of the pond last August, I joined a small gathering.

I first met Chris Alheit back when his maiden 2011 Cartology was in barrel, introduced by Peter-Allen Finlayson whose Crystallum project was just getting off the ground. The two rented the same wine facility together with John Seccombe of Thorne & Daughters. The winery has certainly expanded since I was last here with more space at Chris’ disposal. I find him in typically philosophical mood. “I have the feeling that chapter one is drawing to a close and 2017 marks the turning of a page,” he explains. “The 2017 has been the realization of the last few years. When we put 2017 Cartology together I was thinking it would be the last vintage. My wife and I talk a lot about making “origin” wine. I’ve thought a lot about Cartology that tends to be graded down because it is Western Cape [i.e. a multi-regional blend.] We learned a lot and learned about the vineyards that has helped us get to this point. We have plans to plant up in the mountains in Ceres. I got to know a farmer who planted Riesling for me in 2015. It’s a totally different climate. I believe we are just scratching the surface with the Cape. Ceres is very exciting. We now have five Chenins on different soils and keep the same approach: never acidify and never manipulate. I like a lot of fine solids in the ferments because they add dimension and structure and amplify the acidity. I like tannins in white – it gives them more-ishness.” Prior to my visit there was a great deal of hubbub about the quality of Chris Alheit’s 2017s and the speculation was well founded since these are stunning, quite cerebral wines. The quality starts from the labels, beautifully drawn and individually evocative of where the vines are located. From small beginnings, in just seven years he expanded his portfolio as he found new sites (with the assistance of old vine forager, Rosa Kruger) each with their own expression. The wines do need time to open up and I would even go as far to advise decanting them for an hour or two. These come highly recommended. Vinous readers can expect a more in-depth article on Alheit with a complete vertical of all the Cartology wines to date.