2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Under the direction of technical director/winemaker Philippe Prost, Bouchard began harvesting on the Cote de Beaune on September 30, with most crus coming in between October 4 and 9.(Bouchard waited until October 5 to attack the Cote de Nuits, but Prost noted that "we didn't lose acidity because the pinot noir grapes were less advanced.")Prost told me that Bouchard experienced 20% to 80% hail damage on 42 hectares of vines on the Cote de Beaune.He considers 2013 to be a fragile vintage owing to rot pressures "but not in the grand crus or in Meursault Perrieres."Prost added that he "loves the richness of the 2012 vintage.The main decision was to destem 30% of the fruit before the press as the berries were small and the stems were somewhat metallic and bitter due to the quick ripening."Acidity levels are just average in 2012, and Prost believes that although the wines have good minerality they will generally be for drinking before the 2013s. Also recommended:2012 Puligny-Montrachet (86).

Due to the tiny, concentrated berries in 2012, said winemaker Philippe Prost, Bouchard began picking both its chardonnay and pinot noir on September 17. "We didn't want to get overly ripe fruit," he told me.In fact, Prost described the chardonnay in the Maconnais as very low in acidity but noted that there was better acidity in the northern half of the Cote de Beaune, including distinctly more malic acidity in Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Corton-Charlemagne than in 2011.In Chassagne, though, the hailed-on parcels may have retained less acidity, due in part to lost foliage.Prost told me he cut the percentage of new oak in the 2012 Cote de Beaune whites; today he's more likely to season his new barrels by using them first for Bouchard's lesser wines.And Prost does not like extended drying of his barrels, as he feels that longer toasting of the wood catalyzes the tannins and can result in premature oxidation.Moreover, he added, a grande chauffe toast can yield heavy wines.We like our barrels dried for 24 to 28 months.That gives a slightly more green expression, which is good for the wines."