2009 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru
France
Chambertin Clos De Bèze
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2024 - 2044
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I tasted an impressive range of wines with Jacques Lardière and his successor Frédéric Barnier, who is slated to take over when Lardière retires at the end of 2012. Jadot makes a mind-bending number of wines, but I limited myself to the best 35 or so examples. In 2009 Jadot began harvesting on September 6. All of the reds were made from 100% destemmed fruit. Maceration times varied from wine to wine, but according to Lardière all of the wines are made with essentially the same approach. Lardière is another of the producers who compares 2009 to 1959, and believes the wines will age well because of their density of fruit and minerality. Many of the estate's own vineyards are farmed biodynamically, but of course Jadot also sources a significant amount of wine from other growers that is not necessarily from biodynamically farmed vineyards.
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Jacques Lardiere was one of a very few winemakers who discussed the importance of doing a saignee to concentrate the musts in 2009. "Especially in vineyards that produced high yields, it was important to do a triage at harvest-time and to do a saignee to get more concentration," he explained, adding that he bled off up to 20% of the juice in numerous cuvees. In fact, he said, he probably should have done more in some of his wines. Yields were typically between 42 and 45 hectoliters per hectare on the Cote de Nuits. In the end, he went on, there are great wines in 2009 but a range of quality: The best will be like the '59s "in the touch of their tannins." Lardiere told me that the average chaptalization in 2009 was 0.6%; the addition of sugar was mostly to compensate for evaporation during the long macerations. Jadot planned to start bottling at the beginning of 2011.
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