1998 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselles Grand Cru

Jadot harvested its 1998 pinot noir first, then brought in chardonnay. As in '91, the house used a table de trie for all of its white grapes. ("The sorting table is the best aspect of new technology," noted winemaker Jacques Lardiere, who profits from a new state-of-the-art vinification facility just outside the town of Beaune and yet is one of the last Burgundy winemakers I'd describe as high-tech.) Lardiere used a higher percentage of new oak than usual for the '98s due to the tiny size and concentration of the crop-as much as 60% to 70% for a number of the top crus. About 80% of the malolactic fermentations were allowed to take place, and the '98s were bottled between February and April of this year. After doing extensive lees stirring with his '97 whites, Lardiere carried out no batonnage for the '98s as he was uncertain about the quality of the lees. Powdery mildew, he pointed out, has a tendency to mute the taste of chardonnay, and it can lead to unclean tannins in pinot noir. During my late June visit, I focused my attention on the finished '98s, as the '99s will not be available in the retail market for another year. Besides, noted Lardiere at the end of June, "the '99s are only now truly beginning their period of aging in barrel." But my early look at a dozen or so top examples from the later vintage made it obvious that this is a set of wines with very strong potential. "The acidity levels in '99 were no higher than in '98," Lardiere noted, yet the wines possess a sappy brightness, more citrus and floral character than the earlier year, and impressive penetration on the palate.