2009 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche)
France
Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2019 - 2055
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2018 - 2030
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In both Chablis and the Cote d'Or, the summer of 2010 was not hot, said Philippe Drouhin, and the plants did not lose their acidity. "We had a high percentage of malic acidity, similar to 2008, but the overall acid level was a bit lower in 2010. We started picking in Puligny-Montrachet several days after the rains on September 12. Those who did not spray late enough risked getting leaf damage, which would have led to slow, incomplete ripening," Drouhin added. "There's a botrytis element in some wines that gives an impression of ripeness even when it's not really there." A few of the 2010s I tasted at Drouhin at the beginning of June were just at the end of their malolactic fermentations.
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2014 - 2014
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I tasted the 2009s with Jerome Faure-Brac, Drouhin's head winemaker. Interestingly, Faure-Brac chose to serve these wines a touch on the warm side, so I could observe their strengths and weaknesses more clearly. It was a high stakes move, especially in a warm vintage. I am not sure I would have personally had the guts to make that decision, but it speaks of great conviction….and the wines came through beautifully. The 2009 harvest began on September 21st, quite late for the year. New oak levels were down sharply, malos were blocked on a number of wines and the estate did no bâtonnage. The wines were racked one prior to being bottled.
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Philippe Drouhin told me that the family starting harvesting its chardonnay with its Clos des Mouches holding on September 7, picking portions of this cru through virtually the entire white wine harvest, which ended on September 18. Grape sugars were elevated in 2009, according to Philippe Drouhin: from 13.1% to as high as 14.6% for the Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. Winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac routinely blocked 20% of the malolactic fermentation in order to preserve vibrancy in the wines. Still, the Drouhin bottlings from the Cote de Beaune have pHs in the 3.3 to 3.35 range, compared to 3.1 to 3.2 for their Chablis cuvees. Drouhin described the 2009 wines as more charming than the 2008s; he believes they will be pleasant to drink young. "But the 2008s are also ripe wines, and their acidity is there for a good reason," he added.
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