2008 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche)
France
Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2019 - 2055
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Philippe Drouhin told me that the family starting harvesting its chardonnay with its Clos des Mouches holding on September 7, picking portions of this cru through virtually the entire white wine harvest, which ended on September 18. Grape sugars were elevated in 2009, according to Philippe Drouhin: from 13.1% to as high as 14.6% for the Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. Winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac routinely blocked 20% of the malolactic fermentation in order to preserve vibrancy in the wines. Still, the Drouhin bottlings from the Cote de Beaune have pHs in the 3.3 to 3.35 range, compared to 3.1 to 3.2 for their Chablis cuvees. Drouhin described the 2009 wines as more charming than the 2008s; he believes they will be pleasant to drink young. "But the 2008s are also ripe wines, and their acidity is there for a good reason," he added.
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After doing no batonnage for the 2006s, winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac stirred the lees of the 2007s every three weeks until the end of the malolactic fermentations. Still, he described the finished 2007s as crystalline, taut, very pure wines. Faure-Brac wasn't yet quite sure what to make of the 2008 whites. "They're certainly showing their new oak now; due to the level of acidity in the wines, one feels the sap of the wood," he told me. "The wines are very tasty today but will that character remain? Will the wines stay fresh? My question about 2008 has to do with pH and longevity. The pHs are surprisingly high considering the high levels of acidity." My early impression is that the 2008s here have more volume than the Drouhin 2007s but perhaps less tension. Grape sugars in Drouhin's estate wines were typically 13% or even higher, and no chaptalization was done. At the time of my visit most of the final blends had been made, but a few '08s (particularly the Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet) had not yet finished their malos.
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