2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
France
Corton Charlemagne
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2021 - 2032
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2019 - 2031
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I tasted the wines in this article during my visit to Bonneau du Martray last summer while the Musique et Vin festival was running, a time that today feels like it belongs to another era entirely. Winemaker Emmanuel Hautus showed me a wide range of vintages, all of which were impressive. I had tasted some of these recently, so I can't say I was entirely surprised. Hautus grouped the Corton-Charlemagnes into three flights: 1) vintages of energy (2005, 2014, 2017), 2) weak vintages (1993, 1994, 2011) and 3) recent vintages (2015, 2016) and the very rare red Corton into two flights: 1) older vintages (1991, 1999, 2003) and 2) newer releases (2015, 2017). Although they had been bottled only a few months before this tasting, the 2017s, the first vintage made under new owner Stan Kroenke, point to a very bright future.
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Aureole, New York.
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2013 - 2013
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Proprietor Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière compares 2011 to 2007, and to a lesser extent, 2001. Flowering was very early, as it was everywhere in Burgundy, but the main cause for concern was a hailstorm that arrived on May 20, that seems to have had little effect on yields, which were inline with normal. A very rainy July and early August slowed down ripening from its previous fast pace. The Chardonnay harvest started on September 6 and finished on the 12th. Fermentations were quite slow within the context of the year, and it was not until June 2012 that the malos were completely finished. The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne was bottled in Spring 2013.
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Jean-Charles de la Moriniere makes a single white wine but a load of it, as he is the single largest owner of land in Corton-Charlemagne, with 9.5 hectares of vines out of a total of 34. De la Moriniere was not ready to show his 2012 but had bottled his 2011 in March. The crop level in '11 was reduced by hail on May 20, just before the flowering, which damaged the canopy. De la Moriniere told me that treatments with valerian and arnica cured these "wounds" in 48 hours. I also retasted the 2010 Corton-Charlemagne and it is at least as strong as I thought it was a year ago. (The 2006 was a bit more problematic, as it wasn't until the third bottle that we found one that was as fresh as a grand cru white Burgundy of this age should be.) (A Becky Wasserman selection; imported by Martin-Scott Wines, www.martinscottwines.com and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com)
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