2013 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2019 - 2032
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2020 - 2035
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2020 - 2032
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2018 - 2024
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I was unable to taste at Coche-Dury in the spring of 2014 as the estate was shorthanded at the time and overwhelmed with vineyard work. This year, the Coches poured a nearly full set of their 2013 whites, which Raphael Coche described as "a good classic vintage, less fat than the 2012s." Potential alcohol levels were around 12.5% in 2013, added Coche, and none of the finished wines is as high as 13% following very light chaptalization. The '13s had been bottled in April.
The 2014s were not ready to taste as they were still at various stages of their secondary fermentations. Coche described the newer vintage as "massive, powerful, very concentrated wines with good acidity, like the 2012s."
00
2017 - 2022
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Leroux started harvesting in 2014 on September 13, beginning with his hail-hit Meursault vines, which ultimately produced just 18 hectoliters per hectare. Although most of his whites are négociant wines, he picks most of the fruit with his own team. He then uses a vertical press, which takes much longer than a horizontal press and extracts less. He therefore needs more fruit to make a similar volume of wine. And the slow, gentle pressing, he told me, helps him retain better acidity.
Leroux ages his premier crus in 20% to 25% new oak and uses 50% for his Batard-Montrachet. The 2014s were scheduled to be racked for the first time in July (a few were still finishing their malos at the beginning of June) and to be bottled next spring (the 2013s that I tasted at the beginning of June had only been bottled a month before my visit, after being allowed to settle in tanks for four to six weeks). Following some problems with premature oxidation of his 2008s, Leroux now bottles at least a percentage of all of his wines except for the Batard-Montrachet with screwcaps.
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