2007 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Cellarmaster Eric Remy describes 2008 as a classic vintage for Domaine Leflaive. Humid, showery weather had threatened widespread outbreaks of mildew and oidium, and Leflaive did a total of 13 treatments against vine maladies. After the rains of early September, the estate did a labor-intensive pass through the vines, eliminating 10% to 15% of the fruit. But then the north wind that began in the middle of the month saved the crop, concentrating sugars and acids. At the harvest, which started here on September 22, grape sugars were typically 12.8% to 13% or more (very little chaptalization was done), and acidity levels were around six grams, a high percentage of which was malic. The 2007s here, which had only recently been bottled at the time of my visit, emphatically showcase their various terroirs and would appear to be constituted for good medium-term aging. (Remy recommends waiting on the 2007s and drinking the 2006s earlier.) Incidentally, Domaine Leflaive is widely cited by long-time collectors as an estate that has largely avoided problems with premature oxidation. When I discussed this subject with Remy, the only recent vintage he had any doubts about was 2002. But he was not yet sure whether the variability he has noticed up to now is a function of corks or of the wines themselves. Clearly, the Leflaive whites gain in stability from an extended stay in cuves. For example, the 2007s remained in tanks from early September of 2008 until they were bottled in April and May of this year. I have omitted notes on a couple of 2008s that were in the middle of their malos (most of the premier crus were finished), but I have included early impressions of the very promising grand crus, which had not yet started their secondary fermentations.

April of 2007 featured 140 more sunshine hours than the long-term average, noted winemaker Pierre Morey, but each of the next four months received 30 to 40 fewer hours of sunshine than usual. But the summer was not as bad as advertised, Morey added, as the outbreak of mildew just affected the leaves, not the grapes. In fact, said Morey, "the 2007s are cleaner at this stage than were the 2004s, which were quite reduced, and the 2001s, which were blurred by heavy leesy notes." Sure, the 2007s are less powerful than the 2006s and 2005s, Morey went on, but very little chaptalization was needed (generally about a quarter of a degree) and the wines will drink well early. "The crop level was good but quantities were not explosive like 2004 and 1999," he explained. Incidentally, the 2006s here are carrying alcohol levels higher than the estate's 2003s, with the Meursault the lowest at 14%. "The wines are at the limit of surmaturite, and certainly a bit high in alcohol," said Morey. "But I thought the same thing about the '92s and those wines have evolved spectacularly. I believe these wines will be best in 8 to 15 years, sooner than the classic '05s, and that the botrytis notes will emerge with time." By the way, Morey retired from Domaine Leflaive at the end of July to focus his efforts on his own domain and his Morey-Blanc negociant operation; Eric Remy, who has worked with Morey at Leflaive in recent years, took over as cellarmaster.