2004 Riesling Schlossberg Trie Speciale Vendanges Tardives

Tasting through the 2005s and 2004s with Laurence Faller was a fascinating experience, as I was able to try both vintages of each bottling side by side (at other addresses during my trip, I tasted the 2005s first and then the 2004s, or vice-versa). I came away with the impression that the Fallers selected their harvesting times impeccably in 2005 but were more at the mercy of the weather in 2004, when some late-picked fruit was compromised by rot. Laurence described the 2005s as having "higher acidity across the board, with high levels of ripeness and a lot of botrytis." In comparison, she went on, "vintage 2004 was equally rich, with more botrytis in riesling" (the estate made riesling VT and SGN in 2004 but not in 2005). With a few notable exceptions, I preferred the exhilarating 2005s for their purity and lift (this very strong group of wines will be featured in an upcoming issue). Also worthy of note were a few superb 2003s Laurence showed me. While some winemakers failed to make the case that 2003 is worthy of consumer interest, I was convinced by the 2003s I tried here. Incidentally, Laurence uses the following shorthand to describe the last three vintages here: "2003 spicy, 2004 fruity and 2005 floral." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)