2021 Etna Rosso Arcurìa

The wines of Alberto Graci continue to impress for their precision and mineral intensity. These are not your average Etna wines by any stretch of the imagination, as the style is bent toward refinement and poise. They show the pretty side of Nerello Mascalese without relying on ripeness to carry the balance of the wine. As a result, it can be challenging to taste these when mixed in with other wines from the region. Yet, observed on its own, this portfolio excels for its distinctive style of lift and finesse. This lineup has a lot to like, starting with the Bianco and Rosso Arcuria, hailing from a vineyard planted around the estate in Passopisciaro. Both offer tremendous value. The 2019 Rosso Sopra Il Pozzo also blew me away, emerging from a tiny 0.2-hectare plot within Arcuria. Readers should pay special attention to the 2019 Quota 1000 Barbabechhi, made in small quantities from pre-phylloxera vines at 1,000 meters in elevation.