2003 Gewurztraminer Late Harvest Vista Verde Vineyard San Benito County

Bob Cabral describes 2005 as "a cool vintage, without the heat spikes we got in 2002, 2003 and 2004." This impressive set of wines demonstrates the vivid fruit character and elegance long-time fans expect from this property. That said, I can't help wondering when the ghosts of Burt Williams and Ed Selyem will finally be exorcised, as Cabral is now entering his second decade here and has amassed a track record for impeccable work. It seems almost impossible to start a conversation about Williams-Selyem without it taking a quick turn to "Burt and Ed this" or "Burt and Ed that." People should enjoy these wines for what they are rather than for what they were-or never were.

This winery's production was down 2,000 cases in 2003, mostly due to what winemaker Bob Cabral described as a "horrible" flowering during a cold and rainy period.Zinfandel yields were down virtually 50%, and the resulting wines are like zin essences.Almost all of the Williams-Selyem pinot noir fruit was picked between August 25 and September 15, and the harvest was complicated by a heat spike around Labor Day."The Rochiolis irrigated the Allen Vineyard for the first time since I've been at Williams-Selyem," said Cabral, who added that he would much rather add water to the vineyard than to the wine, which would have been necessary had the fruit dehydrated even more and the grape sugars risen even higher.Cabral continues to follow what he calls "cookbook" vinifications, in order to allow vineyard differences to express themselves.Almost all of the 2003 pinots were acidified, but not the Ferrington; the wines are nearly all in the 14% to 14.4% alcohol range.Cabral noted that he likes the Russian River Valley wines in 2003; he feels they're better balanced than those from the SonomaCoast, which he says show harder tannins and a more masculine style.