1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Calistoga Cuvee Napa Valley

Assistant winemaker Nile Zacherle described the 2000 vintage as a slow-ripening, large vintage with a relaxed harvest. The fruit managed to retain acidity well. In 1999, in contrast, the ripeness of clusters was less regular, and there was a stampede to pick." I was surprised to learn that the '99 was only racked a total of three times, which Zacherle explained was "to preserve fruit and avoid drying the tannins. We used to rack more in the '80s because the tannins were tougher then, less ripe and sweet." Beginning in 2000, Montelena is rapidly shifting to whole-cluster fermentation of chardonnay, which Zacherle says eliminated the need to fine the 2000. In '99, all of the chardonnay grapes were crushed, in 2000 the wine was fermented with 45% whole clusters, and in 2001 with 75%.

The '99 vintage brought the lowest crop level ever for the estate cabernet, at 1.1 tons to the acre, Bo Barrett told me in early March. "We had tiny berries and very late ripening, but the fruit didn't dehydrate or get overripe as a small crop normally would have," Barrett noted. "The wine tastes like it from a yield of one ton an acre, but it doesn't taste like raisins." Fans of this estate's cabernet should take advantage of Montelena's futures program. The '97, said Barrett, was originally offered at $45, but by the time the wine was released to the public the price was closer to $125. The '99 will be offered this spring at $75.