2019 Sagrantino di Montefalco

The Antano family, consisting of farmers, ranchers and winemakers, began operations in Montelfalco in the 1960s. They continue work with vineyards planted by Milziade Antano in 1975. Today, Francesco Antano and his son Giordano Antano manage the fully organic vineyards and winery. Antano explains that all work is done by hand, following the strict guidelines of generations past. The farm totals 50 hectares, of which 30 are planted to vines. They also grow grains and olives and raise livestock, including a herd of cattle used for beef and the manure to fertilize their fields. The house’s non-interventionist style consists of long macerations and aging in large casks with very limited use of sulfur, primarily just for the Grechetto, a recent addition to the portfolio. Tasting the wines is like stepping back in time. Rich and fruit-focused, they possess structure and plenty of energy with the slightest rusticity that I find attractive. The entire lineup is worth exploring, from the pretty Montefalco Rosso, which blends 60% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 20% Sagrantino, all the way up to the single-vineyard Sagrantino di Montefalco Colleallodole, sourced from vines planted in 1975. Due to the exclusion of sulfur, proper handling is crucial from production to consumption, just like the wines of Paolo Bea. I’ve had mixed experiences with bottles from various sources. However, tasting these wines at the estate is revelatory. The 2019 vintage was extremely successful for Milziade Antano, with the flagship Sagrantino di Montefalco outshining many others. Another highlight is the extremely limited Umbria Rosso Sagrale, a vineyard selection of Sagrantino that was refined for 18 months in stainless steel, 10 months in tonneaux and another nine months in large oak botti. The wine is immortal. Unfortunately, only 400 bottles were produced.