2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard Rutherford
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Consulting winemaker Philippe Melka's overview of the 2008 and 2009 vintages at this stunning estate did not exactly match what I found elsewhere in Napa Valley. Melka describes the 2008s as "more earthy, minerally wines, with notes of sage and pastis and less red fruits than normal." He went on to call them "intellectual wines" built on length. Two thousand nine, he said, is in a radically different style, a bit like 2005. "It's all about pretty fruit and vibrant acidity. The colors have not aged at all in barrel. The wines are not overly concentrated or exotic; they're pure and refined, with red and black fruit flavors. They're denser than the 2008s but their minerality lightens this impression. Their high-quality tannins will make then consumer-friendly but they will also age well." About two-thirds of the 2009 fruit was harvested before the big October rain. "The short, compact harvest saved the vintage," said Melka.
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