1998 Chardonnay Lorenzo Vineyard Russian River Valley
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Winemaker Eric Stern continues to craft chardonnays that can hold their own against the North Coast's finest boutique bottlings—and you can actually find the Landmark wines in the retail marketplace. These are rich, deep chardonnays with remarkably detailed, precise aromatics. The more I taste Landmark's Overlook and Damaris chardonnays, which are blends of fruit from disparate sites, the more I wonder why more California wineries without obviously superior single sites don't make chardonnay like this. Stern describes the '98s as highly aromatic wines, with good acids, while the '97s had leaner flavors and the '96s bold, fatter flavors. "We harvested on the late side in '98," said Stern, "yet because of the cool season, the fruit retained its acids." The Damaris chardonnay is a blend of the best barrels of juice from the winery's numerous individual sites; the objective, says Stern, "is to highlight the vintage, and thus the barrels tend to be from the ripest, late-picked lots."
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