2018 Riesling Oestricher Lenchen Trockenbeerenauslese

As already noted in the general vintage 2018 introduction that accompanied my initial report in this series (highlighting the Nahe), Andreas Spreitzer attributed his good fortune in 2018 to a predominance of deep-rooted, mature vines in relatively water-retentive soil, but also to fairly aggressive hedging and de-leafing that in his (decidedly minority) view retards acid respiration and sugar accumulation by thickening the berry skins. Perhaps not coincidentally, Spreitzer is among the few growers whose vintage 2018 wines retained fairly high levels of dry extract. But although low levels of extract (hence paucity of potassium) can be held to a significant degree responsible for the general tendency of vintage 2018 German Rieslings to taste livelier and brighter than their measurable acidity would lead one to expect, Spreitzer chose to emphasize the role played by succinic acid generated in the course of fermentation, a phenomenon often encountered in warm vintages, though one that few other growers I met mentioned, much less produced analyses to confirm.

While the commencement of harvest here, on September 13, was earlier than in 2017, it was later than for most of the Rheingau estates I visit, and also, as Spreitzer pointed out, later than the start of his family’s 2011 harvest. “There was nothing under 88 Oechsle,” observed Spreitzer of 2018, “but for two weeks there was nothing over 92 Oechsle either, and the grapes were extremely stable” – though to that assessment should be added the caveat that finished acidities vary considerably. Most of the vineyard-designated dry wines were harvested in the first half of October, but a few not until late that month, which Spreitzer acknowledged as “very late... but still not with high [potential] alcohol. I compare the [2018] situation to that of a marathon runner who doesn’t have enough water,” Spreitzer suggested, “which forces him to slow down toward the end of the race.” But water scarcity clearly didn’t turn critical; had that been the case, berry dehydration would have driven up the must weights. Moreover, despite such relatively late harvest, even those among Spreitzer’s 2018s with acid levels that look low on paper are nearly all notable for their animation and refreshing brightness. “From the standpoint of winemaking,” said Spreitzer, “2018 was super simple.” He reported that – again, despite the relatively late harvest – all fermentations were finished by Christmas. (For extensive background information on this estate – including its recent stylistic and methodological evolution – as well as on the recently expanded roster of sites it farms, consult the introductions to my accounts of its 2014–2017 collections.)