2011 Riesling Konigsbacher Idig Grosses Gewächs

Idig was first mentioned as a site in the 14th century in the records of the Prince Electors of the Palatinate, and it stayed in their possession until Napoleon evicted the nobility living on the western shores of the Rhine in the early 19th century. To this day it remains unusual in still being in the hands of only a single owner, since 1998 those of Steffen Christmann, who is currently the president of the VDP. Planted on chalky loam and clay over a bed of tertiary limestone, the barely four hectares of vineyard are considered steep by local standards, with slopes exposed to the south and southeast. One of the warmer sites in the Pfalz, it can produce a majestic wine in sunny vintages, with the six from 2007 to 2012 being almost over the top. The challenge is to keep that potential on leash in order to confer the resulting Riesling a restrained elegance. Harvesting a touch earlier and drastically shortening the time of the cold soaks were two of the tools that Steffen Christmann employed in 2013 to reach that goal. Along with the 2005, the ’13 stood out as one of the finest Rieslings in this first flight. In an average year, 8,000 to 12.000 bottles are produced.

Although he is the current president of Germany's VDP, Steffen Christmann maintains a low profile.He is more interested in allowing his wines to speak than in basking in the limelight himself. Since the 2009 vintage, all of his wines are of certified biodynamic provenance.Less showy in their youth perhaps than they once were, they age even better, coming into their prime only three or four years after the vintage.In particular, the Idig is a long-distance runner and regularly stands out in my "ten years after" tastings.In terms of value for money, though, look to the Olberg from the same village.It is generally the finest of his "premier crus" and is often as good as many Grosses Gewachs from the region at only a fraction of the price. Also recommended:2010 Gimmeldinger Biengarten Weissburgunder Trocken (85), 2011 Konigsbacher Riesling Trocken (85), 2011 Konigsbacher Riesling Trocken (85), 2011 Konigsbacher Kapellenberg Riesling Trocken (86), 2011 Konigsbacher Olberg Riesling Trocken (90), 2009 Spatburgunder (86), 2009 Konigsbacher Olberg Spatburgunder (87), 2009 Konigsbacher Idig Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs (88).Other wines tasted:2011 Weissburgunder, 2011 Riesling Trocken.