2014 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

Annegret Reh has presided over long-term consolidation both of the enormous acreage that had been accumulated by this Ruwer-based estate as well as of its range of bottlings. But that range is still extensive, incorporating as it does dry village-level bottlings, up to a half dozen Grosse Gewächse, as well as corresponding Kabinetts and Spätlesen, on top of which nobly sweet bottlings are also featured insofar as the vintage in question permits.

Veteran cellarmaster Wolfgang Mertes routinely manages to keep the estate's diversity and size from compromising consistent quality, and any given year can bring some exceptionally fine wines, although unfortunately none of the 2014s merit that description. Those at the dry end suggest a significant degree of de-acidification, and there is often a lack of precision or concentration, though fortunately none of that precludes charm and easy enjoyment. The Kabinett bottlings here are by design, with the exception of the one from Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, which is only very discreetly sweet. And beginning with the 2014s, their labels follow the pattern established for VDP Grosse Gewächse by displaying a vineyard name unaccompanied by that of the relevant village. (Two important Kesselstatt sites, Josephshöfer and Scharzhofberger, were officially exempted from any village affiliation by Germany’s 1971 Wine Law, so by writing, for instance, “Sonnenuhr” instead of “Wehlener Sonnenuhr,” the estate has introduced a certain consistency to their Kabinett labeling. However, I have followed the convention of including relevant village names in our listings.)