2020 Cheval Blanc
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé "A"
Bordeaux
Red
52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon (2023 vintage)
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2028 - 2065
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“We have stopped comparing the new vintage with other ones,” Pierre-Olivier Clouet told me at Cheval Blanc, my very first visit of a 6-week trip and my first Bordeaux winery visit since February 2020, Pierre Lurton alongside. “It’s a nonsense really. We have some great terroir that produces great wine and we can only predict which direction we think the wine will go. The growing season was excessive. It was one of the driest vintages since 1959 and it was very warm. We had no rain from 15 June until end of September. The storm in August? The water just went into the river. So, it is essentially three months of dryness. Secondly, the entire year was warm, but the warmth became canicule at the beginning of September and we picked during this period. We decided to pick early and quick just because the fruit was ripe, starting on 3 September and finishing on 23 September, a 20-day window instead of 35-40 days. We harvested on 15 days, during which on five, the temperature was up to 30°C degrees. In that respect, there is a similarity with 2003, even if people do not want to admit that. But the wines are not like 2003 because of the spring, when there was a lot of rain, cool temperatures that helped the vine growth and gain energy. The vines were more resilient. At the end, we have a wine that reflects the years, dense and powerful, but without the negative aspect of the excess. It is more open and sexier than usual but without dryness or bitterness. For Cheval Blanc, the alcohol is 14.2°. Of the total production, 17% was sold off as bulk, 12% went into Le Petit Cheval and the rest for the Grand Vin. We never use pressed wine and in dry vintages, the young vines suffer a little.”
“The real comeback of the Cabernet Sauvignon with the new plots,” Lurton told me. “These two parcels lie close to Figeac. When I arrived in 1991, I was surprised by the location of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Maybe there was a competition with Figeac!"
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