2023 Albariño

Kelly Fox’s young 2022s speak first and foremost to the purity and transparency of Pinot Noir. I seldom find wines that show more of a sense of place than the hand of the winemaker. “I like to leave space around my wines that allow you to connect with them,” Fox explained. That makes all the sense in the world when tasting through this portfolio. The 2022s are lifted, finessed and ethereal yet still vibrantly fruit-focused and nearly spiritual in the way that seemingly only Pinot Noir can be. As for the 2023 whites, in the form of Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner and Albariño, they are potent and rich yet driven by an energetic mineral core that adds remarkable depth. Can wine actually taste healthy and fulfilling? Somehow, at Kelley Fox, they can, and they do. Keep in mind that the 2022s are still infants in the grand scheme of their evolution.