1996 Dom Ruinart
France
Côtes De Blancs, Montagne De Reims
Champagne
Sparkling White
Chardonnay (2013 vintage)
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2014 - 2024
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This wine was part of a retrospective tasting 1996 Champagne – For The Ages.
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2014 - 2031
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Ruinart is unusual among Champagne houses in that the overwhelming majority of the production is still sold in France. Perhaps because of that, Ruinart does not enjoy the same visibility as many of its peers. The wines, though, are magnificent. As always, the Ruinart Champagnes are done entirely in steel, with full malo. Dom Ruinart stands out from most other Blancs de Blancs for its powerful, broad texture, much of which comes from the significant presence of Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims. The production cycles in Champagne are always a bit shocking relative to the norm in other regions. Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaiotis arrived in 2007, but it will still be another few years before we taste his Dom Ruinarts!
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Over the last few months I have had the chance to revisit a number of Champagnes from the celebrated 1996 vintage. My first retrospective on the 1996s, published last year, found many of the wines in great shape. Today, only a year later, a number of bottles are finally beginning to show hints of their ultimate potential. Many of these wines have been on the market for some time but only now, fourteen years after the harvest, is it possible to taste a complete range of the tête-de-cuvées from all of the major houses.
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This wine was tasted during collector Bruce Fingeret's birthday party, July 2010
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1996 remains one of the great modern-day vintages for Champagne. The wines possess a combination of bright acidity and high sugars that is extremely rare. The best 1996 Champagnes are bold, racy and exuberant, in both absolute and relative terms, something that has also come across in numerous recent tastings, including verticals of Dom Pérignon, Cristal, Krug and Dom Ruinart. For all of these houses 1996 is one of the more powerful, extroverted vintages of the last 15 or so years. To be sure, the vintage also has its critics. Those who are skeptical of the vintage claim that some producers harvested too early and that a number of wines possess excessively austere and lean personalities that will never soften. My experience with the Champagnes below and others, however, has mostly been extremely positive and I am convinced the best wines have enough balance of fruit and acidity to age gracefully, in some cases for decades.
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2013 - 2019
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Ruinart is Champagne's oldest house, with a history that dates back to 1729. The wines are quite well-known around the world, but less so in the US, where the estate is making an effort to re-establish its presence. Today the wines are made under the guidance of Chef de Caves Frederic Panaïotis who clearly has an outsize passion for these Champagnes as well as the house's rich heritage. Although Ruinart is best known for their vintage Blanc de Blancs, the Rosé is perhaps even more fascinating, particularly after a few years in bottle, which in important vintages allows for the Pinot Noir to speak with great eloquence. The Ruinart wines tend to be medium in body and are made with levels of dosage that are closer to the high end of the spectrum. Although the back labels show codes which can be tracked to disgorgement dates, it would be nice to see Ruinart provide disgorgement dates for its wines.
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical dinner at Cru in New York City, October 2008.
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