2007 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru
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2019 - 2030
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Two thousand eight brought a miserable crop in Volnay, and the smallest production in his experience, reported Dominique Lafon, with the hailstorm in late July a major factor. So was dehydration of the fruit in September. The Volnay fruit ripened eventually, but Lafon did not finish picking his reds until early October, getting 13+% grape sugars but losing what he described as one-third of the volume due to loss of water in the grapes. Lafon cut way back on pigeage for fear of getting green tannins because of the hail. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: Mont helie Les Duresses (86).
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Dominique Lafon describes the 2007s and 2006s as very different in style. "The 2006s are leaner, higher in acid and more elegant," he explained, "while the 2007s are rounder and softer, with considerably higher pHs." The 2006s were racked only for the bottling, but Lafon carried out a gentle racking of the 2007s prior to the 2008 harvest to eliminate aromas of reduction that emerged during the late malos in the summer. The wines also had high levels of CO2 due to the substantial malic acidity in the grapes at the outset, but Lafon kept a good bit of the gas after the racking in order to protect the wines. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)
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