2006 Extra-Brut Millesime Grand Cru

There is quite a bit going on at Selosse these days. The estate is in the middle of a generational transition that has been underway for some time. This set of new releases includes the 2006 Millesime, which is the last vintage Champagne made entirely by Anselme Selosse. From 1975 to 2006, the Millesime has been 100% Chardonnay, a blend of equal parts Chantereines and Malandries du Midi. Beginning in 2007, the vintage Champagne is made by Guillaume Selosse, who has decided to reinterpret the wine by using both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay across a number of the family’s parcels. Needless to say, it will be fascinating to watch where things go in the coming years. The current releases also include the six lieu-dits, this year based on 2011. I find the Chardonnay wines a bit more complete and interesting than the Pinots. Guillaume Selosse told me sugars were rising rapidly towards the end of the season, so the Pinots were picked on the early side. That is in relative terms, of course. Despite the very warm season, the Selosses started harvesting at 110 days after flowering, longer than the classic 100 days that is often believed to be the period of time needed for grapes to reach optimal ripeness.