NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015 base)
$180 (0)
France
Congy
Champagne
Sparkling White
Chardonnay
00
2020 - 2027
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Olivier Collin’s new releases are off the charts. The Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons (2016 base) in particular is an insanely beautiful wine. This small domaine is located in Congy, a bit off the beaten track, but it is always one of my favorite destinations. All of the wines are vinified in oak, with some larger foudres used for aging the reserves. The Collin Champagnes are rich and vinous, with real textural depth and tons of character.
00
2020 - 2029
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00
2020 - 2030
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Olivier Collin was in bright spirits when I stopped by to see him recently. Collin is among the growers who are very enthusiastic about the prospects for 2018. There is plenty to like in the bottled Champagnes as well. As has been the case for the last few vintages, some of these Champagnes contain a high percentage of reserve wines, which makes them less expressive of a single vintage, but probably more complete on their own. Meticulous farming, low yields and a hands-off approach in the cellar are some of the principles that inform these singular, distinctive Champagnes.
00
2020 - 2025
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Olivier Collin was in bright spirits when I stopped by to see him recently. Collin is among the growers who are very enthusiastic about the prospects for 2018. There is plenty to like in the bottled Champagnes as well. As has been the case for the last few vintages, some of these Champagnes contain a high percentage of reserve wines, which makes them less expressive of a single vintage, but probably more complete on their own. Meticulous farming, low yields and a hands-off approach in the cellar are some of the principles that inform these singular, distinctive Champagnes.
00
2018 - 2028
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Olivier Collin's 2018 disgorgements are outrageously beautiful and compelling. Readers should note that the Enfers and Les Roises are still 2013-vintage wines, but the current releases spent 48 months on the lees, as opposed to 36 for the 2017 disgorgements. As always, Collin's wines are built on a striking interplay of vinous intensity and minerality that is the result of meticulous vineyard work and minimal handling in the cellar.
00
2018 - 2028
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Tasting in the cellar with Olivier Collin is always a fascinating experience. The barn-like winery, with rows of barrels all on one level, is stripped down to the bare essentials. Perhaps the most significant evolution in these wines is the increasing use of reserve wines. In the begining, Collin's Champagnes were one vintage or predominantly one vintage, with just a little reserve wine. Starting in 2011, Collin bumped up the percentage of reserve wines in his blends as he acquired larger foudres for the cellar to handle the aging of the reserves. The 2013-based wines reviewed here have around 50% reserve wines, but more recent bottlings go as high as 80%. As always, the wines are made in a rich, vinous style with minimal intervention in both the vineyard and cellar. The 2013s are highly recommended. Lastly, Collin fans can look forward to a new wine from a tiny 0.3 hectare plot just outside the family home co-planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier that will be called Le Jardin d’Ulysse and that will debut with the 2017 vintage.
00
2017 - 2025
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These are five stellar wines from Olivier Collin. One of the recent developments here is a move towards aging the wines longer in the cellar. The Pierrières and Maillons will remain at 36 months on the lees, while the Roises and the new Les Enfers will move to 48 months on the lees. Collin is also planning several later releases for the Enfers. All of these Champagnes stand out for their striking purity of fruit, intensity and impeccable balance, qualities they show right out of the barrel as young component wines.
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