2008 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
France
Chablis
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2021 - 2042
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2019 - 2026
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Still one of the best bistros in all of Paris, this temple to the hearty flavors and rich textures of southwestern France also boasts an outstanding wine and spirits list, making it a must-stop for all serious foodies.
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2019 - 2034
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Bernard Raveneau noted that 2009 brought the second earliest harvest to date here (the family began picking on September 14), following 2003. He describes the 2009s as "very tender and easy-to-drink wines, in a style similar to the 2006s. It's not a grand millesime de garde," he went on. "The wines will probably drink well in seven or eight years." Two thousand eight here is more serious, "a cousin of 2005," but 2007 "is the true Chablis classic-a vintage that can be drunk for 30 years." As the Raveneau wines have established a long track record for slow development in bottle and are very rarely cited by collectors for premature oxidation, it's reasonable to conclude that the later bottling practiced at this estate has been an important factor behind the longevity of these wines. Incidentally, Raveneau opened bottles of the 2002 Montee de Tonnerre and Valmur for me after our tasting of the new wines; both were extremely pale in color. The Valmur actually began a bit reduced and would benefit from 30 to 60 minutes in a decanter if you wanted to open it anytime soon.
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Bernard Raveneau, who had not yet bottled most of the family domain's 2007s at the beginning of June, describes these wines as richer than the 2004s, due in part to the smaller crop. It's a classic year here, with the wines showing incisive aromas and flavors and solid acidity. Raveneau was optimistic about 2008, a riper year in which the fruit came in with grape sugars up to 13% and no chaptalization was done. Although he already considers 2008 to be at least a very good vintage, he emphasized that it was necessary to see how the wines evolved in barrel. Interestingly, Raveneau told me that, at harvest time, the fruit reminded him of vintage 1996. "The wines started hard, with a lot of acidity and sugar," he explained. He was hoping for an elevage similar to that of 2007, during which the wines became rounder. A few of the '08s were already in barrel, but a majority were still in tank at the beginning of June.
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