2007 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru
France
Chablis
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2019 - 2031
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2018 - 2027
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A San Francisco institution, Zuni Café has kept guests well fed since 1979, eons by the standards with which restaurants open and close in the United States. The cozy, two-story, rustic dining room is bustling with energy as we settle in for this mid-week lunch.
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Bernard Raveneau, who had not yet bottled most of the family domain's 2007s at the beginning of June, describes these wines as richer than the 2004s, due in part to the smaller crop. It's a classic year here, with the wines showing incisive aromas and flavors and solid acidity. Raveneau was optimistic about 2008, a riper year in which the fruit came in with grape sugars up to 13% and no chaptalization was done. Although he already considers 2008 to be at least a very good vintage, he emphasized that it was necessary to see how the wines evolved in barrel. Interestingly, Raveneau told me that, at harvest time, the fruit reminded him of vintage 1996. "The wines started hard, with a lot of acidity and sugar," he explained. He was hoping for an elevage similar to that of 2007, during which the wines became rounder. A few of the '08s were already in barrel, but a majority were still in tank at the beginning of June.
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One of the idiosyncracies of this superb estate is that tastings here have always begun at the premier cru level. No longer, though, as the Raveneaus finally have some village Chablis with vintage 2007: they will produce about 5,000 bottles from vines they planted five years ago around the bottom of Montmain. In 2007 the Raveneaus picked between September 10 and 16, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol levels in the moderate 11.5% to 12% range and chaptalizing most of the wines to about 12.5%. The wines had already been racked twice following the malos, and they went into futs with very little lees. As Bernard Raveneau described it: "We're not partisans of working with the lees." Raveneau noted that the 2007 fruit was picked under better conditions than in 2004 and that the new crop of wines has more flesh than the '04s. Incidentally, the 2006s had just been bottled a week before my end-of-May visit. They are outstanding, but Raveneau appears to give the edge to the 2005s, which he compared to the 1990s made here. "No work was needed in the vines in 2005," he said. Raveneau told me that his 2006s tended to finish with more residual sugar than the 2007s (typically 2 to 3 grams, vs. 1 to 1.5).
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