2021 Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru La Martinière

The genial Emmanuel Ogereau has taken the reins of the family property in Saint-Lambert-du-Latray, 15 km or a 30-minute tractor ride from Savennières in which they have five blocks (including two in Clos le Grand Beauprèau). There's lots to be excited about at Domaine Ogereau. Since arriving in 2014, they've converted to organics and, in late 2019, started farming biodynamically. The wines are mostly inoculated with a pied de cuve starter yeast, and the goal is to make all ferments wild, although, in difficult vintages, that's not always possible. There's a gentle hand here with no sense of forcing ripeness or oak. While Ogereau initially allows the juice to become brown, the wine style has become less oxidative. It was 90% sweet, and now it's 70% dry.