2008 Friulano Filip

No other estate in Italy boasts a line-up of white wines as strong as Enzo Pontoni’s at Miani. His Friulano is the country’s greatest example of this wine. Magnificently deep, multilayered and unctuous, it offers a textbook example of Pontoni’s talent as well as a glimpse of the heights this variety can reach.

This wine was tasted over lunch at NoMad and was featured in Wine & Food, January 2013.

Miani is one of the very finest wineries in the world. This tiny estate is located in Buttrio, a small town in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli that contains one of the finest perhaps the finest terroir for pedigreed, ageworthy wines in northeastern Italy. When I meet a grower with proprietor Enzo Pontoni's passion for the vine I often wish every vintage could be a great vintage. If quality could be assigned based on sheer effort and dedication every vintage here would be profound. Pontoni releases just 7,500 - 8,000 bottles per year from 23 hectares of vineyards. Many of his plots are old-vine, terraced vineyards with superb exposure. I tasted Tocai, Merlot and Refosco from various parcels in August 2009 came away deeply impressed by the sheer integrity of the fruit. Sadly, 2008 is a mixed bag at this illustrious property. The wet spring and ensuing bouts with peronospora left Pontoni with a difficult choice; either treat aggressively to try to save the year's crop but risk the longer-term damage to the vineyards from excessive spraying, or let nature have her way in 2008, but preserve the health of the plants for 2009 and beyond. Ultimately Pontoni chose the latter, which meant renouncing a significant amount of fruit in 2008. There is no Ribolla, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Saurint and the production of reds will be tiny even by Pontoni's standards. The 2008 whites are certainly pretty, but they lack the kaleidoscopic quality that informs the very finest vintages. The 2006 reds are without question the highlight of these new releases. Both Merlots are exceptional, which bodes quite well for the Rosso Calvari, a wine that will be released next year. Readers who want to learn more about Miani may want to check out my recent feature on this site.