1996 Sagrantino di Montefalco
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One of the best-kept secrets in Italian wine: owner Marco Caprai dedication to quality is absolute and uncompromising, and the work of his winemaker, Attilio Pagli, is simply brilliant. The riserva bottling of the sagrantino has been Italy's best single red wine in the 1990s, outstanding in '91 and '93, superb in '94, '95, and '96, and with a '97 in preparation that leaves one straining for adjectives. But the entire gamut here is first-rate, and the house is admirably staking its bets on native varieties.
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